A cosmetic may change how skin and hair look; a claim to change how they work makes the product a drug
For skin, hair and oral care brands and the suppliers of their botanical actives: formats, skin delivery, the cosmetic–drug boundary, MoCRA duties and registrations as of October 2026, and what EUTECNIQ proposes.
Status. EUTECNIQ is in formation. It has no cosmetic products, customers or test data, and is not registered with FDA as a cosmetic facility. The services below are proposals; legal statements summarize U.S. federal law as of October 22, 2026 and are not legal advice.
Brands and suppliers who need a botanical active that is stable, safe on skin and described lawfully
Text version: customers, rules, stages and documents
Customers
- Skin and hair care brands Serums, creams, lotions, oils, gels, shampoos and leave-in products built around a botanical active.
- Oral care developers Toothpastes and rinses with botanical flavors or actives, where one claim can change the category.
- Botanical active suppliers Need characterization, stability and safety data a brand's responsible person can rely on.
Rules that apply
- 21 U.S.C. 364d MoCRA safety substantiation by the responsible person.
- 21 U.S.C. 364c Facility registration and product listing.
- 21 CFR 700, 701, 740 Prohibited ingredients, labeling, warnings.
- 21 U.S.C. 321(g), (i) Cosmetic or drug: intended use decides.
- 21 CFR 210 and 211 Drug CGMP if a claim makes it also a drug.
Platform stages and tests (proposed)
- Active characterization Identity, composition, impurities.
- Prototype formulation Phase location, rheology, preservation with partners.
- Stability and packaging Oxidation, color, compatibility.
- Release or penetration study How much reaches the skin layers.
- Claim screening Cosmetic wording versus drug claims.
What the customer would receive
Botanical actives are often large, unstable or colored, and the claims that sell them can cross into drug territory
Data table: every rule set in the treemap
| Rule set | What it covers | Agency group | eCFR sections | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 21 CFR Part 700 | General. General cosmetic rules, including ingredients prohibited in cosmetics such as methylene chloride (§ 700.19). | FDA · 21 CFR | 12 | Applies |
| 21 CFR Part 7, Subpart C | Enforcement Policy. FDA's recall policy: recalls are voluntary actions, classified by health hazard, with a recall strategy. | FDA · 21 CFR | 10 | Check |
| 21 CFR Part 701 | Cosmetic Labeling. Cosmetic labeling, including the designation of ingredients (§ 701.3). | FDA · 21 CFR | 10 | Applies |
| 21 CFR Part 740 | Cosmetic Product Warning Statements. Warning statements required on certain cosmetic products. | FDA · 21 CFR | 8 | Check |
| 16 CFR Part 260 | Guides for the Use of Environmental Marketing Claims. The Green Guides: the FTC's views on environmental marketing claims. | FTC and CPSC · 16 CFR | 17 | Applies |
| 16 CFR Part 465 | Rule on the Use of Consumer Reviews and Testimonials. Bans fake reviews and testimonials, buying sentiment-conditioned reviews, insider reviews and review suppression. | FTC and CPSC · 16 CFR | 8 | Applies |
| 16 CFR Part 255 | Guides Concerning Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising. How the FTC applies Section 5 of the FTC Act to endorsements and testimonials in advertising. | FTC and CPSC · 16 CFR | 7 | Applies |
| 29 CFR 1910.1200 | Hazard communication.. Hazard communication: hazard classification, labels, safety data sheets and worker training. | OSHA · 29 CFR | 1 | Applies |
| 29 CFR 1910.132 | General requirements.. Workplace hazard assessment and personal protective equipment. | OSHA · 29 CFR | 1 | Applies |
| 29 CFR 1910.147 | The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout).. Lockout/tagout of hazardous energy during servicing and maintenance of machines. | OSHA · 29 CFR | 1 | Check |
| Total | 10 rule sets; 7 apply, the rest apply only in the circumstances they name | 75 | 56 in rules that apply |
Explanation, details and sources
The science Published evidence
The outer layer of skin keeps most large molecules out. Many plant constituents oxidize, discolor or carry odor, and they can upset emulsions and preservative systems.
The law Regulatory requirement
FDA judges a product by its intended use, shown by its claims. A claim that the product affects the structure or function of the body makes it a drug, whatever the ingredient.
The format decides where the active sits and what can break
Show the table (6 rows): Cosmetic and personal care formats with their structure, the typical botanical challenge a
| Format | Structure | Typical botanical challenge | Proposed EUTECNIQ work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Serums | Aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, sometimes thickened or lightly emulsified. | Solubility and oxidation at the use level; color. | Solubilization, antioxidant system, packaging compatibility. |
| Creams and lotions | Oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, often with structured lamellar phases. | Where the active partitions between phases; emulsion stability; preservative performance. | Phase location of the active, droplet size and rheology, preservative efficacy with partners. |
| Oils and balms | Anhydrous blends of oils, butters and waxes. | Oxidation and rancidity; wax crystallization. | Antioxidant selection and oxidative stability testing. |
| Gels | Water swollen by a gelling polymer. | Actives, salts and pH can collapse the gel. | Polymer choice and pH-viscosity mapping. |
| Hair care | Surfactant systems and conditioning emulsions. | Most of the active rinses away; surfactants can bind it. | Deposition and retention measurements. |
| Oral care | Abrasive pastes and aqueous rinses. | Taste and stability in water-rich systems. Fluoride, or a therapeutic claim, makes the product also a drug. | Taste masking, compatibility testing, claim screening. |
Format descriptions are general formulation science, offered as EUTECNIQ's planning view. Oral care classification: FDA, "Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both?" (September 11, 2024).
The skin's outer layer filters botanical molecules by size and polarity, so the delivery design starts with the molecule
Show data
| Constituent | PubChem CID | Formula | Molecular weight, g/mol | XLogP3 (computed) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ferulic acid | 445858 | C10H10O4 | 194.18 | 1.5 |
| Caffeine | 2519 | C8H10N4O2 | 194.19 | −0.1 |
| Resveratrol | 445154 | C14H12O3 | 228.24 | 3.1 |
| Bakuchiol | 5468522 | C18H24O | 256.4 | 6.1 |
| Quercetin | 5280343 | C15H10O7 | 302.23 | 1.5 |
| Rosmarinic acid | 5281792 | C18H16O8 | 360.3 | 2.4 |
| Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) | 65064 | C22H18O11 | 458.4 | 1.2 |
| Rutin | 5280805 | C27H30O16 | 610.5 | −1.3 |
| Glycyrrhizic acid | 14982 | C42H62O16 | 822.9 | 3.7 |
| Asiaticoside | 11954171 | C48H78O19 | 959.1 | 0.1 |
Text version of the delivery notes
Large actives
A large glycoside may still be useful at the skin surface, for example as a film former or humectant. Any statement about penetration needs data on the actual product.
Carriers
Structured emulsions, liposomes and lipid nanoparticles change where an active sits and how fast it leaves the product. See the delivery page for each system and the tests that characterize it.
Nanomaterials Final guidance
FDA's 2014 guidance on nanomaterials in cosmetics says safety should be assessed by fully describing the nanomaterial, and that penetration studies should use both intact and impaired skin.
FDA, "Safety of Nanomaterials in Cosmetic Products" (June 2014, docket FDA-2011-D-0489).
Explanation, details and sources
The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the main barrier. A widely cited rule of thumb holds that a compound must weigh under 500 daltons to be absorbed through skin.
Penetration does not decide the legal category; intended use does. Penetration data matter for safety, because they bound how much of an ingredient can reach the body.
Intended use, shown by claims, decides whether a product is a cosmetic, a drug or both
The definitions are quoted in the figure; FDA's examples show where common claims fall.
Text version of the claims and distinctions
| Claim or product | Category | What follows |
|---|---|---|
| Cleanses, beautifies, improves appearance | Cosmetic | No FDA approval; MoCRA obligations; safety substantiation. |
| Restores hair growth; reduces cellulite; increases or decreases melanin production; regenerates cells | Drug | FDA's own examples of drug claims. A new drug application or OTC monograph conformity is needed. |
| Antidandruff shampoo; fluoride toothpaste that cleans and freshens; antiperspirant deodorant; moisturizer or makeup with sun protection | Cosmetic and drug | Must meet both sets of requirements, including drug cGMP under 21 CFR Parts 210/211, and conform to an OTC monograph or an approved application. |
- "Cosmeceutical"≠A legal category. FDA: the term "has no meaning under the law."
- Cosmetic registration and listing≠FDA approval
- Supplement structure/function safe harbor≠Available to cosmetics
- Skin penetration≠Drug status (intended use decides)
Four MoCRA duties are in force; the GMP and fragrance-allergen rules have not been proposed
The cosmetics and MoCRA page covers each obligation in depth.
Text version: each obligation, what MoCRA did not change
| Obligation | What it requires | Status, October 22, 2026 |
|---|---|---|
| Facility registration and product listing FD&C Act § 607 | Facilities register with FDA and renew every two years; responsible persons list their products. | In effect FDA's enforcement discretion ended July 1, 2024. |
| Safety substantiation § 608 | The responsible person must "ensure, and maintain records supporting, that there is adequate substantiation of safety." A product without it is adulterated. | In effect Since December 29, 2023. |
| Serious adverse event reporting § 605 | Report to FDA within 15 business days with a copy of the label; keep records for 6 years (3 for certain small businesses). | In effect Since December 29, 2023. |
| Label contact information § 609(a) | A domestic address, domestic phone number or electronic contact, such as a website, through which the responsible person can receive adverse event reports. | In effect Since December 29, 2024. |
| Good manufacturing practice § 606 | FDA was to propose a rule by December 29, 2024 and finalize it by December 29, 2025. | No rule proposed Deadlines passed; FDA has a draft GMP guidance. |
| Fragrance allergen labeling § 609(b) | FDA was to propose a rule by June 29, 2024. | No rule proposed Deadline passed. |
| Asbestos testing of talc products MoCRA § 3505 | Standardized testing methods. | Withdrawn Proposed December 27, 2024; withdrawn November 28, 2025. |
What MoCRA did not change
- FDA does not approve cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients before sale; color additives are the exception.
- "Neither the law nor FDA regulations require specific tests to demonstrate the safety of individual products or ingredients." Animal testing is not required.
- A short list of ingredients is prohibited or restricted by regulation, including mercury compounds, chloroform, vinyl chloride and methylene chloride (21 CFR Part 700, Subpart B).
- False advertising of cosmetics is unlawful under the FTC Act (15 U.S.C. 52).
How EUTECNIQ would describe its own practice Proposal
No cosmetic GMP rule exists to comply with. EUTECNIQ would describe cosmetic work as aligned with FDA's draft cosmetic GMP guidance and with ISO 22716:2007, "Cosmetics — Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) — Guidelines on Good Manufacturing Practices." Products that are also drugs would be made only by manufacturers operating under drug cGMP.
FDA, "Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA)," content current as of August 10, 2026; 21 U.S.C. 364a to 364d; Pub. L. 117-328, §§ 3503(b) and 3505; 88 FR 77323 (November 9, 2023); 89 FR 105490 (December 27, 2024); 90 FR 54603 (November 28, 2025); FDA cosmeceutical page; 21 CFR 700.11 to 700.35; 15 U.S.C. 52; ISO 22716:2007 (confirmed 2022).
Data table: facilities by country
| Country or territory | Facilities | Share of all |
|---|---|---|
| United States (all states and territories) | 2,930 | 17.9% |
| China | 8,138 | 49.6% |
| Korea, South | 947 | 5.8% |
| India | 568 | 3.5% |
| Italy | 328 | 2.0% |
| Japan | 301 | 1.8% |
| France | 287 | 1.8% |
| Canada | 236 | 1.4% |
| Mexico | 192 | 1.2% |
| Brazil | 189 | 1.2% |
| Turkey | 179 | 1.1% |
| Taiwan | 176 | 1.1% |
| United Kingdom | 161 | 1.0% |
| Vietnam | 157 | 1.0% |
| Hong Kong | 147 | 0.9% |
| Spain | 144 | 0.9% |
| Colombia | 124 | 0.8% |
| Australia | 110 | 0.7% |
| Germany | 107 | 0.7% |
| Israel | 79 | 0.5% |
| Poland | 64 | 0.4% |
| All other countries (89) | 834 | 5.1% |
Active characterization, prototypes and stability in house; skin safety, consumer studies and manufacturing with partners
Text version of the division of work
In-house, once the laboratory exists Proposal
- Identity, composition, color and odor profile of botanical actives.
- Prototype serums, emulsions and gels with physical stability data.
- Chemical stability of the active in the product and its package.
- In vitro release and skin-penetration studies to bound exposure.
- Scientific support for the responsible person's safety substantiation file.
With qualified partners External partner
- Skin irritation and sensitization testing, including human patch testing under IRB oversight.
- Preservative efficacy and microbiology testing.
- Instrumental and consumer-perception studies for appearance claims.
- Contract manufacturers; drug cGMP manufacturers for drug-cosmetic products.
- Regulatory counsel for claims and labels.
Five levels of evidence, and what each can support for a cosmetic
Text version of the evidence levels
| Level | What it shows | What it cannot show | Role for cosmetics |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 Identity and composition | The material is what the label says, at a defined strength. | Safety or benefit. | The starting point of any safety assessment and of the ingredient declaration. |
| 2 Safety | The product is safe under its conditions of use. | Benefit. | Required: adequate substantiation of safety, held by the responsible person. |
| 3 Biological activity | An effect on skin cells or tissue models. | An effect in people; and a claim built on it may describe a drug effect. | Rationale only. Claims of cell-level action risk drug status. |
| 4 Exposure | How much of the active enters or crosses the skin. | Benefit. | Feeds the safety assessment by bounding systemic exposure. |
| 5 Human outcome | A visible or measurable change in people under controlled conditions. | Effects outside the studied product and population. | Substantiates appearance claims in labeling and advertising. |
Developing a botanical cosmetic or personal care product?
Describe the active, the format and the claims you plan to make. The first reply would flag any claim that risks drug status and the data the safety file will need.